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Taking it from R8, R9, and R10 is exactly the same as taking it directly from the VDC-NUS chip itself with the legs down - as I thought it would be. I have tried connecting to all the different points for RGB.To be honest there is not much between them. Wouldnt it be cool to have a listing like that here.I then tried the internal amp mod shown here at the bottom of the page:-Which made the picture much brighter, and would in fact be perfect except for the fact that there are now interference lines on the screenI guess my next step is to remove the internal amp and make the amplified RGB scart cable instead:-Although I have read that the scart amp makes the picture less clear/noisey?What im wondering is, what causes the interference in the first place?What does the internal amp points actually do? and is there anything I could put between the points to remove the interference? (eg resistor/capacitor).Or is there an alternative method to performing this mod?I believe there are currently three choices on where to connect the RGB points:-1) Directly from the VDC-NUS chip with the legs lifted.2)From the R8, R9 and R10 point on the underside of the board, which I believe/guess is exactly the same as connecting diirectly from the chip with the legs down?Well, I have been experimenting, but havent had much luck so far. Much like the previous one, serial is in the wrong place.On 64DD.net, we are collecting 64DD serial numbers to get an idea of production quantities and stuff. ESRB rating in the wrong place (should be lower left) and the serial is too (should be lower right, regardless of region). Quantity: More than 10 available / 6 sold.Again, wrong serial (this serial is for Hot Wheels - All Out, real one is BAW), no company name or Licensed by Nintendo.I tried on one leg, then the other one, then with both off the board (but still linked by wire) but found that the interference was still there no matter what I didWith the wire removed and both legs up in the air I got no picture at all.I am not sure what else to try - I would love to know what legs 22 and 23 on the VDC-NUS chip actually do - how they cause this 'picture boost'. I guess this is the same as linking the points on the bottom of the motherboard as it seemed to do exactly the same thing - brighten the picture but cause interference.I am guessing that legs 22 & 23 actually connect to the same points on the bottom of the motherboard which people usually link for the internal boost, although when I tried to follow the the traces it was abit too small/confusing to be sure.I then thought that maybe legs 22 & 23 still being connected to the board may be causing the interference somehow, so I tried lifting each one off the board. I had read previously that if you lifted the legs the picture would be much brighter but I didnt find it to make any differenceI also read in an old thread on here of poeple joining legs 22 and 23 on the VDC-NUS chip to also give an internal boost. Both gave a clear picture, but both were far too dark.The serial number is printed on a small white sticker on the bottom of the console. Obviously this really narrows down how many US N64's can be 'properly' RGB modded, as there would be so few before they changed to revision 4.Chances are good that in Japan they had revision 1, 2 and 3 boards (Since the Japanese Launch was months earlier) - so you have a much better chance of getting one of these early boards with the Japanese models - hence why people always think Japanese N64's are better for the RGB mod.Right now im trying to find a revision 1-3 N64 console that I can try and RGB mod to compare to my revision 4 N64 RGB mod.It would be very helpful if anyone who has a US/Japanese N64 console could open it up and let us know what motherboard revision they have and what their serial numbers is, then perhaps we can narrow down which models are best for the RGB mod once and for allAll you have to do is remove the top cover, then the revision number should be visable printed on the motherboard behind the cartridge slot.You dont need to remove the heatsinks or anything. As far as I know these are the earliest US N64 consoles available (launch consoles) which means that the US started with the revision 3 motherboard, skipping revisions 1 & 2. Unless it was on the bottom slot coverplate that i cant find currently, since my 64 had been originally connected to the 64DD.QuoteLastly, do you have any pictures of the AV lines on the back of the board?I double checked my old pictures from that day in my archive, and unfortunately i didnt take any pictures of that side, but i know it was just a wierd overlap of wires that i tried forcefully not to have them intersect (since theres only so much space in that corner)It pretty much looked exactly like it did in this pictureEither somethings different with your consoles sync line (or similar) thats giving it a higher gain, or that you just have a much more tolerant TV/ monitor (But if you have tried the same monitor with both a US and Japanese RGB modded console there must be a difference!)Yeah there is a difference, but i think the pvm helps greatly.QuoteI cant quite make it out from the picture, but did you lift the legs of the chip off the board, or just leave them down?No they are left down, i dont think lifting pins will gain bandwith? i could be wrong.Let me know if you need any additional info, and i'll try my best to help.Quote from: RARusk on June 10, 2008, 02:15:21 PMWould the sync buffer circuit that is normally used for the DreamCast VGA signal work in this situation?Possibly, although unfortunately I dont have the necessary components to try itAlso, just thought id add, I have since found out that US N64's with a serial starting with NS10******* have a revision 3 board.
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